Materials
½-inch MDF Cut List:
Floor, two
panels at 84 x 42 inches
Side #1, two
panels at 90 x 42 inches
Side #2, one
panel at 90 x 42 inches (door side)
Top Door goes with side #2, 12 inches x 34 inches (Top of door use off cuts from other
MDF)
Side
#3, two panels at 90 x 38 inches (wall opposite door.)
Side #4, two
panels at 90 x 42 inches
¼-inch plywood: roof, two panels at 90 x 42 inches
2x4 Cut List:
One at 34 inches
One at 42
inches
Two at 8
inches
Two at 38
inches
Three at 76
inches
Two at 80
inches
Twelve at 84 inches
Fourteen at 87
inches
Two at 90
inches (for roof support)
Additional Materials:
1 box of 3-inch drywall screws
1 box of 2-inch drywall screws
Safety gloves and goggles
1 roll of drywall tape
1 bucket of joint compound
1 track light strip with outlet adapter
1 track light
Tools
Miter saw, wood glue, power drill with variety drill bits,
power sander, sanding sponge, and white paint
1. Measure out an area in your house or apartment that can
accommodate a 7x7-foot cube with an entryway on one side and anticipate a
10-foot-high clearance on top. For floor: Place four 84-inch 2x4s with a
45-degree miter cut (the 45-degree cuts only need to be cut on these four
pieces to ensure a right angled base) in a square shape on the ground, corner
to corner. Place small off-cut pieces of 2x4 in each corner to reinforce; then
glue and clamp. Pre-drill 8 holes through the frame into the corner
reinforcements, then countersink the predrilled holes and screw in 3-inch
drywall screws. Place two 80-inch 2x4s in the center of the frame and pre-drill
8 holes into the ends the 80-inch 2x4s. Countersink each hole and then screw in
3-inch screws.
2. Take two
38-inch 2x4s and place them perpendicular in the center of the frame. Through
the outer frame, pre-drill 4 holes into the ends of the 38-inch 2x4s;
countersink and then screw in four 3-inch screws. On both sides, at the joint
between the 38-inch and 80-inch 2x4s, pre-drill at a 45 degree angle into the
80-inch 2x4s through the 38-inch 2x4s. Then countersink those holes. Screw in
2-inch screws to complete the framework for the base of the Gallery Kit.
3.
Take two 84x42-inch MDF panels and lay them flush next to each other onto the
frame you have just built. Visually check that they neatly fit in the center
and look tidy at the edges. This process may require the help of a friend and
pairs of gloves. At this point you may find you also need to manipulate the
corners of the frame a little to make them square. (Kick and shove the frame to
a squarer shape if need be!)
4. Once the base is satisfactorily squared up, pay particular
attention that the edge between the two MDF panels is as close and flush as
possible. Then at equidistant lengths, pre-drill through the MDF into the
substructure of the 2x4 frame, taking care not the move the panels or frame as
you are doing this. About three screws should be used on the 42-inch sides and
four screws on the 90-inch inch sides of each panel. Then countersink each
drill hole and begin drilling in 2-inch screws. Step on the floor base to see
if it will hold you.
5. For Side #1: The next step is to build two 84x90-inch
walls. This process is very similar to building the base except it doesn’t
require reinforcement. Lay out two 84-inch 2x4s on the ground, and between them
lay out four 87-inch 2x4s with the ends of the ‘resting’ on the length of the
84-inch 2x4s. The 84-inch strip will form the top and base of the panel. The
ends of the 84-inch 2x4s should be showing. Two of the 87-inch should be laid
together flush at the center (the 42-inch mark of the 84-inch 2x4s) and the
other two forming a flush right angle rectangle. Pre-drill twice at each joint
through the 84-inch 2x4s into the ends of the 87-inch 2x4s, and countersink
then drill in 3-inch screws. Add another 3-inch screw to the center pair of
86-inch 2x4s if the wood doesn’t lay flush. Then take two 90x42-inch MDF panels
and repeat the drilling process outlined in Step 4 to make wall. Ensure that
one 84-inch edge is flush between the 2x4 and MDF as this will be the base.
It’ll stand better! Repeat
for Side #4
6. For Side #3: Lay out two 76-inch 2x4s. Join them with four
87-inch 2x4s with two 87-inchers placed in the center (the 38-inch mark of the
76-inch 2x4s). Repeat Step 5, and then repeat Step 4 to attach the 90x38-inch
MDF to this panel. For the Side 2# doorway panel, lay out one 42-inch 2x4 and
one 76-inch 2x4. Between these place two 87-inch 2x4s to form a rectangle. It
will form a rectangle with a remainder of 34 inches of the 76-inch 2x4
protruding. Place two 8-inch 2x4s (one next to the 87-incher and one at the end
of the 76-incher). Form a door lintel with the 34-incher laid at the base of
the 8-inch 2x4s. Repeat steps 5 and Step 4 by screwing MDF (42x90 and 34x 12) onto
the doorframe you have built. Again, insure the base edge is flush between 2x4
and MDF. It will be easier to stand when assembled!
7. At this point you should have a floor base 84 x 84, two large walls 84 x 90, one
smaller wall 76 x 90, and one doorway wall constructed. If you have paid
attention to the lower edge of each panel and ensured they are flush between
the MDF and the 2x4 assembly, the panels should be almost free standing. Place
the base carefully where you would like the Gallery Kit to be exactly located
and assemble a crew of three. (Moving and securing the wall panels require two
people to hold upright and one person armed with a drill, so make sure there
are strong arms and good backs available. Use work gloves. Test out how you
will move as a team and discuss instructions. Rehearse the steps.)
8. Lift one 90x 84-inch panel into place on the outer lip of
the floor base. Adjust it so that the panel is flush on both edges and on the
lip of the base. Hold upright and then screw in four 3-inch screws through the
base 2x4 and into the floor section’s MDF. Pre-drill if you like but it’s not
critical. Then, leaving one person holding this section, take the other two
people and lift the 90x76-inch panel into place and adjust flush to the first
panel. (Bear in mind that these screws are visibly exposed so consider
practicing beforehand on some scrap 2x4s.)
9. Screw four 3-inch screws through the 2x4 into the base.
Then hold together the edges of the first panel and the second, and screw
through the 2x4 edge into the other panel in at least three roughly equidistant
places. At this point the structure is more or less free standing. But for the
moment make sure one person is holding onto an edge. Next, carefully place and
adjust another 90x84-inch panel, screwing into the base again and then through
one 2x4 into the other panel. (It’s certainly free standing now.)
10. To complete the walls, take the doorway panel and
carefully place it on the remaining open edge of the base. (This piece is
lighter! Yay!) Screw this panel into the base and then screw to the two large
panels through the 2x4s. At this point you should probably have a ladder to
reach the lintel of the doorway and screw that into the MDF panel through the
2x4 that touches the MDF panel.
11. At this stage the roof of the Gallery Kit should be made.
This consists of two sheets of ¼-inch plywood 90x42 inches and reinforced with
a strip of 90-inch 2x4 on the exterior. The 2x4 prevents bowing and provides a
support for light fixtures. The lighter plywood ensures the roof is light
enough to lift for one or two people. At edge of the plywood, use four 1-inch
screws to join the plywood and one 90-inch 2x4. Countersink so the screw heads
don’t show after painting.
12.
With your three buddies, lift the sheets over the wall edge. Center them so the
2x4 spines touch. Go inside the Kit to see if the two panels are actually close
to being flush. Then proceed to climb a ladder and screw through the ply into
the 2x4s. Then you can finish the interior. Either paint immediately and just
leave the edges rough, or hide the joints. Apply joint compound cover with
drywall tape to seal the exposed corners and edges. Then apply joint compound
again to mud over the tape, which should then be sanded down for a finish coat
of paint. A light track from a home improvement store can be screwed into the
ceiling. I recommend using a wall plug adaptor for this to avoid complicated
electrical wiring. Then just add art...
Note: The
preceding information is based on a re-creation of our own step by step
construction process. Feel free to adjust to your own skill level and needs.
